Mechanical vs hydraulic disc brakes

Both mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes stop the bike well. The main differences are in feel, maintenance, and serviceability.

This is a general overview. Specific performance varies by brake model and pad choice.

At a glance

	Mechanical disc	Hydraulic disc
Actuation	Cable	Sealed fluid system
Lever feel	Good but firmer	Smoother, more progressive
Modulation	Decent	Better
Power	Strong, especially top-tier mechanical	Generally stronger
Maintenance	Cable + pad + occasional re-cable	Bleeding when needed, pads, fluid change
Trailside fix	Easy (cable swap, pad replacement)	Harder (bleed kit needed)
Cost	Lower	Higher
Weight	Slightly heavier (with cable + housing)	Slightly lighter on premium systems

Touring and bikepacking. Trailside repair without specialised tools.
Budget-conscious builds.
Older bikes being upgraded from rim brakes where existing cable-routing fits.

Daily riding. Less maintenance over time, better feel.
Performance riding. Modulation matters when you're braking precisely at speed.
Wet conditions. Sealed system + better modulation = more confidence.

Mechanical — cables stretch, housing collects grit, pad wear changes lever feel. Periodic re-cable is normal.
Hydraulic — bleed when lever feel becomes spongy or the pad gap doesn't auto-adjust well. Brake fluid type matters (DOT vs mineral oil — never mix).

Mixing brake fluids. DOT and mineral oil are not interchangeable. Use exactly what the manufacturer specifies.
Riding on contaminated pads. Stop, replace, decontaminate the rotor.
Ignoring rotor wear. Worn rotors compromise braking and can damage pads.

Browse brakes or book a service — we'll bleed, re-cable, or upgrade as needed.