How to choose clipless pedals
A primer on the main clipless pedal systems and what tends to suit each kind of rider.
Clipless pedals (the name is historical — "clipless" means no toe clip, even though you clip in) connect your shoes to the cranks for more efficient pedalling. Picking the right system matters because shoes, cleats, and pedals are an ecosystem — switching later means changing all three.
This is a general overview. Specific compatibility is best confirmed with the manufacturer.
The main systems
| System | Typical use | Cleat type | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shimano SPD-SL | Road | 3-bolt, larger platform | Wide adoption, walk-unfriendly |
| Look Keo | Road | 3-bolt | Light, similar feel to SPD-SL |
| Shimano SPD | Gravel, MTB, commute | 2-bolt, recessed | Walkable, double-sided pedals |
| Speedplay | Road | 4-bolt adapter | Adjustable float, lowest stack |
| Time Xpresso | Road | Time-specific | Auto-tension cleats |
What to look for
- Float — how much your foot can rotate before unclipping. More float = more knee-friendly for most riders.
- Tension adjustment — how hard or easy it is to clip in/out.
- Walkability — recessed cleats (SPD, MTB) let you walk normally; protruding cleats (SPD-SL, Look) don't.
- Stack height — distance from spindle to shoe sole. Lower can give a more connected feel.
How to think about it
- First clipless pedals? SPD (mountain/gravel-style) is the most forgiving entry point — easier to clip in/out, walkable.
- Pure road rider? SPD-SL or Keo offer a wider platform and stiffer interface.
- Long distance / touring? Walkability matters, so SPD usually wins.
Common mistakes
- Setting tension too high at first. Start loose, tighten as you get comfortable.
- Forgetting cleat wear. Cleats are wear items — replace before they get sloppy.
- Choosing pedals before shoes. Some shoes only support certain bolt patterns.
Browse our pedals selection or come visit to try systems in person.
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